A Beginner's Guide to Leopard Gecko Care

How to Care for Your Leopard Gecko

Leopard geckos are one of the best reptile pets you can have. A lot of people compare them to bearded dragons, which are also very popular indoor pets. People like leopard geckos because they take up very little space, they like being handled, and can live for over 15 years. They make great housemates and will brighten up your space without even trying.

They’re also pretty low maintenance. But that doesn’t mean you should just get a leopard gecko without doing any research. There is a lot you need to know before buying one, especially if you’re new to keeping reptiles. In this article, I’ll cover all the basics you need to know to start your research process.

Let’s get started.

Upfront Costs

What should you expect to pay for a leopard gecko and its habitat? And where should you get one? In general, we recommend staying away from pet shops, which usually breed their lizards in poor conditions similar to a puppy mill.

Ideally, you want to find a breeder. But be sure to ask about the conditions the lizards are raised in and look for reviews and feedback. An even better option is to go to a reptile show, where you’ll find reputable, top-of-the-line breeders.

Cost-wise, the gecko itself should be one of the most inexpensive things on your list. You can find baby geckos for anywhere from $30 to over 100, depending on who you buy it from.

The cost for a habitat ranges wildly. You’ll need a vivarium, which can run well over $200. But you can find vivariums used for much cheaper. You’ll also need a heat pad, substrate, moss, hides, lights, and feeder insects. All of that “furniture” adds up, and can run into hundreds of dollars.

You’re also going to need feeder insects. One of the cheapest ways to do this is to start a colony of roaches or other feeders. This can be relatively cheap, depending on the species you pick, say around $50.

In total, expect to pay $400-600 for your leopard gecko and its habitat.

 

Leopard Gecko Needs

The Leopard gecko, Eublepharis macularius, is a small terrestrial lizard native to central Asia. Unlike most geckos, it lives on the ground and isn’t a very good climber. It typically lives in arid or semi-arid climates, meaning it likes hot, mostly (not entirely) dry conditions. They are opportunistic predators, and in captivity they eat live insects.

Creating a Leopard Gecko Habitat

These are the basics that every leopard gecko needs in its habitat to be healthy and happy.

A Vivarium

The first thing you need to set up a habitat is a vivarium. You’re looking for something roughly 15 gallons, or 24”x12”x12”, with glass walls and a screen on the roof. The screen will increase airflow and prevent them from escaping (even though they probably won’t be able to climb out anyway).

Substrate

Substrate is what you line the floor of the enclosure with. Newspaper is a good option- it’s cheap and easy to clean (replace). Paper towels can also work well. Don’t use sand for substrate as it can upset your gecko’s gut health.

 

Heat and Humidity

Getting the balance of heat and humidity in the enclosure just right is a science.

You’re going for 40-60% ambient humidity, which you can monitor with a hygrometer. Don’t use a fogger to maintain humidity, it will overshoot the mark and your gecko could get a respiratory infection. Instead, mist the enclosure daily with a spray bottle.

As for heat, the enclosure should have a warm side at about 85°F and a cool side which stays between 75 and 80°F. The hot side should also have a basking area which should stay at 90-90°F. A laser thermometer works great for monitoring the temperature in each zone.

Dry Hide, Humid Hide

Leopard geckos need at least two hides, one on the hot side of its tank, which has a drier atmosphere, and one out of the heat with higher humidity. Cave-type hides work best. You can line the humid hide with sphagnum moss (be sure to spray it daily) to keep the humidity up inside. You can include a third dry hide on the cool side of the enclosure too. You’ll also need a basking rock and a food bowl.

Feeding and Nutrition

Leopard geckos are more straightforward to feed than bearded dragons. They’re strict carnivores and can subsist just fine on a diet of insects. They need a high ratio of protein to fat, so choose your feeder insects accordingly. They also need a high calcium content, which you can get by dusting your feeders.

There are a lot of options for feeder insects, but I like to recommend dubia roaches. They’re cheap, nutritious, and very easy to keep in a colony. Black soldier flies are also great to have around for a lot of reasons. You’ll need to do some additional research to figure out how many insects to give your gecko based on its age and the kind of feeder you choose.

Cleaning, Health, and Maintenance

As your leopard gecko grows, you’ll need to keep an eye on its weight. Leopard geckos store fat in their tails, so make sure their tail doesn’t become bulbous or misshapen.

You also need to help your gecko shed properly. This is why humidity is so important. Bathing your gecko every month in clean, lukewarm water without soap can also help ensure it gets a good, healthy shed.

Keep your gecko’s cage clean by cleaning its food and water dish, and any poop in the habitat. On a monthly basis, you should do a deep clean where you remove your gecko and all the furniture in its enclosure, change out the substrate, and clean the vivarium thoroughly.

And those are the basics! Don’t take this article as an end-all-be-all though. You still have a lot of reading to do about the particulars of everything I mentioned, plus how to handle your gecko and what to do if it gets sick. This is just the start of your research journey. Next, you should read our in-depth article on leopard gecko care.

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